Trekking in Mustang - 10/6/2012 to 30/6/2012
Caption : My trusty old trekking shoes and the $7 walking stick
This should have been Trekking to Mt Kailash but it was not meant to be. 2 weeks before we leave for Mt Kailash, news came that 2 elderly died in Mt Kailash and we lost 1 member in our team due to pressure from her love ones. 2 days before we leave and news came that Tibet had closed her borders and foreigners are all barred from entries because someone set themselves on fire in a protest and the Chinese moblised their troops to close all borders.
We had all our permits ready so we intended to try our luck but warning came that we will be arrested if we crossed the border. That sealed our fate to Mt Kailash so we decided to change our destination to Mustang Lo-Manthang instead.
While waiting for the paperwork to be done, we toured the Kathmandu Valley.
10/6/2012 - Kathmandu Valley
Caption : Swayambhu aka Monkey Temple - Kathmandu Valley
Swayambhu sits magnificently on the top of a conical hill and commands a great view of the Kathmandu Valley and the complex is overrun by pilgrims and monkeys.Inscriptions dated this stupa to the the 5th century and it was believed that this hill was used animist rites before the arrival of Buddhism. There is a mixture of Buddhist (statues) and Hindu (Shivalingum) monuments among them. One of the most profound expression of the Buddhist symbolism in Nepal is the famous eyes print on the stupas.
According to the mythology, Kathmandu valley was once a snake infested lake. Then, a radiant lotus appeared on the surface of the lake which gods proclaimed it to be Swayambhu ("self-created") the abstract essence of Buddhahood.
The other more popular myth was Manjushri, the bodhisattva of knowledge drew his sword and cut the gorge to drain the lake and allowed humans to worship Swayambhu. As the water receded, the lotus settled of top of the hill and a shrine was established on the lotus.
Caption : Overlooking the Kathmandu Valley from Swayambhu
My first visit to Nepal was in 1986. During then, the valley was not as crowded as before and the air was much more clear so we were able to see the mountains surrounding the Kathmandu Valley.
11/6/2012 - Kathmandu Valley
Caption : Bodhnath - Chorton Champo the Great Stupa - Kathmandu
Bodhnath lies in the ancient trade route between the Kathmandu and Tibet where traders would pray for their safe journey before driving their yaks onto the high passes in the Himalaya. This is one of the world largest stupa and is build based on the Vajrayna concept of a 3 dimensional mandala. Since 1959, it has become the must visit prilgrim to the Tibetan in exile. Today, the Tibetan runs a flourishing business in and around Bodhnath and you can experience the Tibetan culture especially in the morning and the evening.
According to the Newari legend, there was a drought in Kathmandu during the reign of the Lichhavi King Vridadev. The court astrologers advice that only the sacrifice of a virtuous man will it bring rain, King Vridadev commanded his son to go on a moonless night to the royal well to decapitate the the person near the well. His son obeyed, only to find in his horror that he had sacrificed his father. When he asked the goddess Bajra Yogini how to expiate his guilt, she let a bird free and told him to build a stupa at the spot it landed, thus Bodhnath. It is believed that enclosed in the stupa are holy relics along with sacred texts but it is cannot known as the stupa had been sealed for centuries.
12/6/2012 - Kathmandu to Phokara
Caption : Trisuli River - on the bus journey to Phokara
Today we took a 6 hours journey by bus from Kathmandu to Phokara. We stopped at the bank of the Trisuli River for our lunch. Trisuli River is the most popular destination for short river rafting trip. Most of the rapids along the route are grade 2 to grade 3, suitable for beginners but may go up to grade 4 or 5 during the monsoon seasons. I had my first river rafting experience here 25 years ago.
Caption : Varahi Mandir - Phokara's most famous Hindu temple in the middle of the Phewa Tal
This is Phokara's most famous Hindu temple. It has a 2 tiered pagoda style temple standing in the middle of the island in the fresh water lake. This temple was builded in the 18th century and delicated to Vishnu in his boar incarnation. You will need to hire a rowboat to reach the temple.
13/6/2012 - Jomson (2682m) to Kagbeni (2810m)
Caption : Jomson Airport with Nilgiri (Blue Mountain) as its backdrop
Luck was with us as we successfully took off from Phokara's Airport for Jomsom. Flights to Jomsom are often cancelled due to bad weathers or strong wind. Infact, if you missed the morning flight, you can forget about flying in due to strong wind in the afternoon. Just one month ago on 14 May 2012, an Agni Air Dornier 228 crashed while attempting to land at Jomsom airport, killing 15 of 21 people on board.
Jomsom Airport served Jomsom, a town in the Mustang District of the Dhawalagiri Zone in Nepal. At 2,682 metre above sea level, Jomsom Airport is considered to be one of the world most dangerous airport. This airport is a favourite spot to flight simulator fans. Jomsom Airport also served as a gateway to Muktinath, a popular pilgrimage to Hindus from both Nepal and India.
Caption : Kali Gandaki - Gandaki River at Jomsom
Here's a little history of Mustang. Mustang has a long, rich and complex history that makes it one of the most fascinating corners in the Himalaya. It is believed that the Kingdom of Lo was founded in 1380 and the construction of the wall city Lo-manthang and gompas throughout the region that brings interest to the foreigners.
After the Dalai Lama fled Tibet in 1959, Mustang became the centre for guerrillas operations against the Chinese. These guerrillas were the Khampas, Tibet's most fearsome warriors who was backed by the American's CIA. However the CIA's support ended in the early 1970s due to new and better relations between the United States and China. The government of Nepal was then pressured to take actions against the guerrillas. Finally it was the Dalai Lama pleas to the citizens to lay down their arms that prevented bloodshed against the 10,000 Nepali troops deployed to Mustang to fight the guerrillas.
Mustang remained closed to foreigners (except for a few researchers) until March 1992 that brings in the first legal trekkers into Mustang. It is the inaccessibility and its reputation as the last bastion of traditional Tibetan culture that lures the curious visitors to Mustang.
Caption : Nepali's Army School of Mountain Warfare training ground - Jomsom
Finally! The days of training and hardwork will be put into test. If I can walk 20km in 5 hours in Singapore, I can do that in Mustang too! How wrong was I. It sometime took me more than 10 hours just to cover 15km. The only blessing was all the previous training had spared me of more muscle ache and blisters.
Caption : Walking the high route along Gandaki River with Dhaulagiri in the background
Caption : Horses transporting goods toward Kagbeni
What makes me sad are views like this will probably disappear in a few years time. In the past, the only way to Lo-manthang is by walking but with the opening of roads, 4 wheel drives are fast replacing this mode of transport.
Caption : Are you sure you do home delivery? OK, I want that refrigerator!
Because of the mode of transport, goods are sometime more than 5 times the cost of goods in Kathmandu and Phokara. With China opening the road from Kare-La (Tibet) pass to Lo-manthang, goods are arriving there from Tibet at a much lower cost. However Kare-La pass is closed to all foreigners.
Caption : Walking along the tracks beside Kali Gandaki River
But with roads brings modern convienience to the people in Upper Mustang. Electricity is available to all the villages and modern farming vehicles lighten the load of the farmers. LED televisions are available to the people and travelling time are cut to a fraction of time.
Caption : Crossing this bridge will lead you to Dolpo, another restricted area for a 28 days trek
It's amazing how they can build a bridge across such a wide river. These bridges are made from steel ropes and steel plate walkway. There are still some of these bridges made from wood similar to what was seen in photos taken in 1953.
Caption : Wooden cantilever bridge exactly to those as seen from photos taken in 1953
Caption : Yac Donalds - the biggest advertisment in Mustang
What caught my attention was this Yac Donalds advertisment on this huge piece of rock. Mustang may be remote but if you think that we were eating tsampa or mantou, you wouldn't believe that the varieties of food are endless. From yak burgers to Italian pizzas. from spaggetti to chowmien, from illy coffee to yak butter tea. We were simply spoilt for choice. Of course I didn't give this Yac Donalds a miss, all for hitman's encourgement of a yak's meal.
Caption : Kagbeni - The gateway to Lo-manthang
Our first stop is Kagbeni, a 4 to 5 hours walk from Jomsom. Being the first day of our trek, we were all hungho and raring to go. This approximately 5km walk with a modest 128m assent was thought to be too unchallenging boosting my big ego.
Caption : Barley crops - the staple food of the Tibetan
Kagbeni is the first Thakali village of the Kali Gandaki River. This Tibetan influenced settlement has a number of good lodges and is the gateway to Lo-manthang. You will have to register with the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) before leaving for the capital Lo-manthang, the legendary Kingdom of Mustang.
Caption : Yac Donalds, Deli-Mustang, SevenEleven and even illy coffee
Although our guesthouse served very delicious meal, that still didn't stopped us from visiting these cafe and the Yak burgers.
Caption : Kagbeni Gompa - Monastery
Mustang is dominated mainly by the Sakyapa School of Tibetan Buddhism. The distinct red, white and brown stripes or the red, white and brown stupa marked the Sakya Sects.
Caption : The Evil Spirits Catcher
Every household in Mustang has a goat head or a yak head hanged outside their main door. And there are several nets, very much like those dream catcher on the head as well. This spirit trap is called a zor and is supposed to capture the evil spirit that threaten the people. This is how the Lobas (people of the Kingdom of Lo but now Nepalis) believed is the way to keep the evil spirits away from their house.
Caption : Goats herds in their pen - Kagbeni
14/6/2012 - Kagbeni (2810m) - Tangbe (3060m) - Chhuksang (2980m) - Chele (3050m)
Caption : Comtemplation
Our second day trek is an uphill task and a battle against the wind. We had an option to choose between the riverbed route or the high route. We chose the high route, not because of our ego but that it offers a visit to the pictureque village of Tangbe and we don't have to wade thru the Gandaki River.
Caption : Destination markers - This way to Chele
The high route takes a bit longer and involved a fair bit of climbing but the scenic views are worth the climbed. After some ups and downs, the trail plateau at 3040m before a sharp drop to the riverbed and another climb to Tangbe at 3060m.
Caption : Barren dry land before Tangbe
Tangbe
Caption : Black, white and red chortens announced our arrival to Tangbe
Tangbe is another small town amongst the whitewashed houses , fields of barley, wheat and an organic apple orchard. There was a small tea where I met the Tangbe 西施. Not only pretty but refine as well . Rare to see in such a hush condition. Later on through the conversation, we found out that she was living in Phokara and not in Tangbe. No wonder....
Caption : Tangbe town
Most of the people had already left Tangbe for other places like Phokara, Kathmandu and even United States. There are only some 32 household left in this village. These people were originally salt traders but with the decline in this trade, most have already engaged in farming and apple orchard.
Caption : Arabian Night?
The strong wind in the afternoon brings sand and dust storm. Thus we have to cover ourself to prevent breathing in the sand or getting into our eyes.
Chhuksang (2980m)
Caption : Leaving Tangbe for Chhuksang
About an hour beyond Tangbe is the next town Chhuksang. No, no spelling mistake, Chhuksang is spelled with double "h".
Caption : Meandering Kali Gandaki River
Chhuksang is usually deserted because it is inaccessible from the town when the water level in the Kali Gandaki River is high. Nilgiri peak can still be seen from here looming at the foot of the valley.
Caption : Crossing a make-shift bridge
路�知马力
Chele (3050m)
Caption : Ancient caves above the eastern bank of Kali Gandaki River
Several books describe of cave dwelling in this part of Upper Mustang but it makes me wonder how the dwellers were able to live in there when the caves are so high above the ground. Some also believed them to be burial ground. We can only speculate that there were either ladders or trails that had eroded long ago into the vertical cliffs.
Caption : Pedestrians must use this route
Yes, even with our trekking boots, our walking sticks, we were merely pedestrians. Rightly so, when the road is completed. The only section of road not completed is this section from Chele to Bhena. Chele proved to be one of the most changelling part of the Mustang route.
Caption : What a view outside the village of Chele!
This small village comprised of just 12 household but several lodges and teashops amongst the field of wheat and barley. Our lodging for the night was Hotel Mustang just beside the village gompa.
Caption : Village's gompa beside our lodging Hotel Mustang
Kinda interesting to know some facts... I didn't know ppl in nepal practice i-ching...
Originally posted by ^Acid^ aka s|aO^eH~:Kinda interesting to know some facts... I didn't know ppl in nepal practice i-ching...
suprised? infact they are more Tibetan than Nepali. I went to their school and the first national anthem they sang was Tibetan before Nepali anthem.
Originally posted by SevenEleven:
suprised? infact they are more Tibetan than Nepali. I went to their school and the first national anthem they sang was Tibetan before Nepali anthem.
well yeah... to be honest, I didn't think tibet practice yi ching too...
and just that the board is hexagon and not pentagon...
the characters reads, li kun or fire/earth... wat does it means?
Originally posted by ^Acid^ aka s|aO^eH~:
well yeah... to be honest, I didn't think tibet practice yi ching too...and just that the board is hexagon and not pentagon...
the characters reads, li kun or fire/earth... wat does it means?
li-kun is the 35th hexagram of the 64 I-ching hexagram. li-kun = "Jin or 晋" a time to make progress.
15/6/2012 - Chele (3050m) to Syangboche (3800m)
Caption : Chele village behind the rocks
路�知马力- this statement is really true. All the uphill and downhill, soon I was falling right behind the group. The more I try to catchup with the group, the more tired I was. So, instead of chasing after them, I went on my own pace and soon was enjoying the walk as well as the scenery.
Caption : Climb leading up a steep spur to a cairn and a view of Ghyakar across a huge canyon
The trek through the high altitude desert climbing the long, steep and treeless spectacular steep canyon with views of the distant Himalayan giants across the Chele La at 3630m is both exhausting and exhilarating.
Caption : My little stupa - Chele La (3630m)
Finally, reaching the first pass Chele La at 3630m. In order to celebrate my reaching the height, I builded my first stupa to wish for a safe journey ahead. Sometime people do it by throwing a rock building up a mountain of rocks like these.
Caption : Nilgiri and Annapurna ranges from Chele La
Samar (3620m)
Caption : Hotel Annapurna at Samar
The brand new gompa behind Hotel Annapurna is sponsered by 2 germans. Unfortunately is but an empty gompa. Sometime I wondered if it is wise to build a new empty temple instead of spending the money to maintain and upkeep a more historical one.
Caption : Himalaya ranges in the distance
Samar was once the stronghold of the Khampa guerrillas and several of the guesthouse that used to cater to them are still in operation, except now to the trekkers.
Caption : Herd of goats blocking our way
Originally posted by SevenEleven:li-kun is the 35th hexagram of the 64 I-ching hexagram. li-kun = "Jin or 晋" a time to make progress.
Asking lingering spirit to move on I guess (dunno why that sounds so ... ... )
I didn't know 7-11 was skilled in chinese geomancy as well...
What a gorgeous set of pictures.
More reason to save money and look to visitng that region when I can find the opportunity.
better go when young... I always view tibet/nepal as the starting place for all...
ehhhhh, a term which is rather difficult to explain...
Originally posted by ^Acid^ aka s|aO^eH~:better go when young... I always view tibet/nepal as the starting place for all...
ehhhhh, a term which is rather difficult to explain...
mai young only leh....not so young also can wan.